And the reconstruction begins!!

[ToddH]

First let me start by saying thanks to the club and MiniDave for the use of the Bently Service Manual. It certainely had the data I was looking for. I'll get that back as soon as we can get the Mini repair underway. It's getting towed to the large garage later today.

The story goes; I purchased the 2006 Mini S 01/2010 and I suspected from the day I purchased it had "water" problems; meaning that is wasn't overheating - but was needing antifreeze way more often then a inconvienence. Any respectable car guy knows that cars never need antifreeze refilled more than once or twice a year unless there is a problem. However crappy dealership mechanics never seem to think a gallon every four to six weeks is a problem to dig out - its better to deny. I managed to carry coolant mix around with me and simply keep topping it off every time I put gas in it. However as we all know that is a recipe for disaster and disaster happen one bad work call on the drive home - tempers flared and voices raised - just as the ignored temperature gauge did. By the time the phone was in the back seat and I was done screaming at the wind it was too late..motor was running rough. Of course I pulled over immediately let the Mini and myself cool down literally and on the restart the motor cranked....cranked....cranked...cranked..every little bit faster till it finally started (another bad sign for those that don't know - this kinda of starting issue is compression related). I pretty much new that at this point the head gasket was blown or worse yet the head was cracked or wrapped - one is really bad the other even worst.

So keeping it short it's now time to put the Mini back to working order it deserves. So here is where we are at.

New Cooper Zeon RS3 Tires 215/45R17's (required to pass missouri inspection)
New Four Wheel Alignment also
New Optima Battery (Group 34) required a bit of modification to the positive battery cable; and it sits a little high in the battery boot.

Ordered waiting for delivery
Victor Reinz Head Gasket Set
Fel-Pro Head Bolt Set
GMB Water Pump w/ new O-Ring
Water Temperature Sensor

With any luck those part should put the cyclinder head back to working order and also cover the major water leakage suspects. The head will likely get checked at the minimum and I'll probably price a valve job and new valve seals while I'm there anyway. In addition I'm going to make the following upgrades while I'm at it.

Ordered waiting for delivery
Madness Mini 15% Supercharger Pully
NGK Iridum Spark Plugs (the one's they suggested)
Supercharger Belt (the one the suggested)
MSD Coil Pack
MSD 8.5 Plug Wires
K&N Air Filter
Brake Pad Sensor (broke it during the last pad replacement)

Wish me luck and I'll keep you updated - hope to grab some picture along the way also as long a the hands are not to greasy to work the camera.

[Minidave]

Good luck, I think with the Manual you should be in good shape, but let us know if we can help.

Appreciate you posting your repairs!

[ToddH]

Update #1,

It appears the "water problem" was a leaky thermostat housing, no other visible long-term water issues were identifiable on the block, no rusting - no coolant color staining anywhere else on the block/head/mounts or chassis. In addition the compression test shows what I believe is cyclinder #1 and #2 at 60 below minimum in the Bently manual (cyclinder #1/#2 from the passenger side). Cylinders #3 - #4 were an identical number and with tolerance range of the Bently manual. More to follow tomorrow night - I hope to have the Mini in full "Service Mode" by then with the cyclinder head removed for inspection - and maybe some pictures.

[Minidave]

Leaky thermostat housings were very common on 2006 MINI's......I would have suggested changing it no matter what else you did.

Pics? Maybe when you get the head off?

[ToddH]

Update #2

Here is some requested pictures for your review. They show a warpped head causing the head gasket to fail (not that it mattered much at that point). Any recommendations on a machine shop that can perform the following work would be appreciated.

- Head Pressure Checking for water jacket and combustion chamber cracks
- Surface decking of cyclinder head (to ensure warpping is removed)
- Good Valve Job

This photo shows the mechanic (aka Dad) hunched over the R53; note that the car is not in "service mode" and yes he's better looking than me.



This image is one of the cylinder head, minus the value cover and the fuel rail on the intake manifold.



This photo is obviously of the cam sprocket. Note as the photo says the line on the cam sprocket is not the timing reference mark. The timing reference mark is about 60 degrees away from that line and is referenced with a small triangle. Always read the manual twice - don't assume.



Wow there it is, cyclinder head fully removed, no service mode. You can see the exhaust header on the right, and toward the top left you have the timing chain stretched up.



Here is a shot of the entire head, note left side of photo is cyclinder #1; see the moisture in combustion chamber #1 and #2, and if you look between the intake and exhaust value on the left side of the #2 combustion chamber you will notice a lightening of the carbon further proof of water getting places it shouldn't be.



Last shot for now, this is a close up of the #1 and #2 combustion chambers, again the moisture there is easily visible. Additionally if you look at the water jacket holes below #1/#2 you can see dark lines running directly to the #1/#2 combustion chambers. The head gasket failed somewhere in this area. Additional further garage diagnoses in that area allows a 20 thousandths "feeler gauge" to get under a straight edge - so it is pretty evident. A leaky thermostat housing; poor attention to the problem; causes a severe overheat; warpping the head; in turn causing a failed head gasket and significant loss of compression in the #1/#2 cyclinders.



Finally - have to show off the mechanic's latest project completion; a 1968 Nova NHRA Stock Class G car; 327 cubic inches; must use factory block, crank, rods, heads/valves, distributor (ignition is not regulated), cam lift cannot exceed .400 lift; manifold much be of a type available on the car (so single/dual plane accepted, no tunnel rams) and it much be naturally aspired. Note might want to turn the volume down..just a warning.

http://youtu.be/ojAm9RXaDBg

Todd H

[Minidave]

I'm a little out of touch on who the good machine shops are these days, but I'll ask around at school and see if I get any reccomendations......

[Minidave]

Recomendation from one of the other instructors at JCCC is for....

Davis Machine shop
5923 Neiman rd
Shawnee....... behind Car Quest

631-1172

"Excellent quality and very reasonably priced" ......says they did all the work on his Z race car and he was very happy with them.

You might also call Baron and ask who they use.

If you need someone north of the river, again a call to a couple of dealers might get a consensus on a good shop up north.....

[ToddH]

Update #3

Thanks for the recommendation on the machine shop; the head is currently in the shop - the price is still up in the air a bit - but still very reasonable. Pressure check, deck milling and valve job was $360.00 dollars (which included the cost to remove the camshaft). The shop guy already called be back with a bit of bad news though. I knew the head was warpped; just didn't know how bad - the number was 13 thousandths out of square. maximum milling allowed on the deck surface is 4 thousandths (9 thousandth of a difference). They are going to try "straightening" the head and let me know. That brought the total machine work cost up to $550.00 - still not to bad. If they can't get the head back to a "millable" tolerance. It will start getting real expensive - real quick.

[Minidave]

What can you buy a rebuilt head for from either Baron or one of the aftermarket specialists?

I was concerned when you said it was 20 thou off, I knew you don't have a lot of room on these cause as you start to remove metal you raise the compression ratio and you can run into valve/piston interference problems too.

Good that they knew better than to just chop it off!

[ToddH]

Well from what I can find a bare head "core" is $1195.00, the machine shop guy said he checked on a "core" and the best price he could find was $975.00. Remember "core" means bare head. So they would have to use my parts to complete the core. Right now I will have 150.00 in the "straightening" attempt and if sucessful, $50.00 in the mill work and $75.00 in the pressure test to find out if the head it "repairable" (total $275.00). The rest of the work is the $180.00 valve job and the $40 disassemble/reassemble. If the head is not repairable the only "real" option I think is a performance head from like RMW for about $2100.00 plus $395.00 for the cam upgrade. I would rather spend $2100.00 on the upgrade head than spend $1195 + 220.00 assembly cost for the same as I have. But I would be happy with $550.00 and get it working - and guessing that I didn't hear from him again today the "straightening" attempt was either successful in still in process.

Kinda wish that I knew exactly how one would "straighten" a warpped aluminum head; I worked in a machine shop for several months after high school - and that was not something I ever heard of - but aluminum heads weren't that common back then.

[ToddH]

Of course a search of the internet yeilded the information that I seeked -

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... ening.aspx

[Minidave]

Wow, a lot of variation of technique there.....thanks for posting that.

[ToddH]

Update #4

Well when we last left the cyclinder head was at the machine shop needing a "realignment". The call came in Friday the head was ready. A quick stop by MiniDave's place to pickup the belt tensioner, pully removal tool and oil filter removal tool; a swing by Baron to pick up a water pump and a thermostat; a "good-luck-you-don't-stand-a-chance" look (probably cause I was still wearing the work clothes) from the counter guy and a swing by Davis Machine shop and I had all the parts. We had to take the car to "service mode" and since we were doing a complete coolant replacement we simply removed the radiator, if you look close in the first photo - you can't get to the bottom bolt of the water pump block housing with the radiator and a/c condenser in place.



Doesn't matter from what angle "service mode" is taunting and a view I hope I don't see again soon.



Here is the head all fixed up ready to be returned atop the block. Looks quite a bit different than it did before the machine shop.



Oh - I almost forgot let's show off the new water pump also.



The cyclinder head has been returned to it proper location, looks way better there.



All buttoned up and if anyone forgot what we are working on its in the upper left hand corner



So the run down as of garage close Saturday:

Reconditioned head, new water pump, new temperature sending unit, new thermstat, new K&N air filter, fresh AMSOIL and Mann Filter

Here is the video of the results

http://youtu.be/OIp_t4IUDAs

We'll keep updating.

[Minidave]

Tha's always a great feeling, isn't it?

In December I spent a whole week with a MINI owner and friend from Dallas working on his '02 Cooper S, we didn't have tthe head off but we did have the transmission out for a new clutch and just about everything else apart. when we buttoned it all up and turned the key it started just like that, a couple hours later he was on the road to Dallas and hasn't had a bit of trouble with it since!

That's when you can pop a cold adult beverage and feel proud of what you did!

Well done boys, well done!

[ToddH]

Update #5 - Almost the final

The mini is effectively road-worthy again. It has had about 30 "test" miles run through it and seems to be working fine.

This session completed the supercharger pully upgrade, drive/accessory belt, new MSD ignition coil, new MSD Wires, new NKG plugs and a fresh coolant change.

The only thing remaining at this point is the cabin air filter - which is not going to stop the commute to work tomorrow.

MiniDave - I will try to stop by a drop off all the loaned tools and books. I want to again extend my appreciation to the club for the use of these as the project would not have been anywhere near successful without them.

[Punk_Mini]

Just a little tidbit here from an engine buildermachinist in-training. Did you check slack in the timing chain before pulling the head before and when putting the head back on as it was decked that brings the cam sprocket lower. The timing chain in the R53 stretches over time, tensioners wear, etc can cause too much slack in the chain and can cause problems. Also additional info MSD coils for SRT4,MINI, GM LSx V8's are not very good at all and can cause spark plug failure (erosion of ground strap), inconsistent firing, etc just hassle. Its better to stick with OEM on coils....we run stock LS coils on our 750whp@9000rpm 427 LSx that powers our Texas Mile car to 200.4mph but hopefully this year we will bust the N/A record which is kinda debatable 208 or 211mph. Also 4 of the most powerful R53's in the world still run stock coil and they make over 450whp@8150. Just lending advice from someone who has some experience of what works and what doesn't.