Brake pad replacement

[holubd]

I have an '08 Cooper that needs the rear brake pads replaced (I've been getting a service notice for a while and now the brake light is permanently on). I have not been able to get the caliper off the rotor because the old pads won't slide over the rim on the outside edge of the rotor. The hand brake was released and I loosened the reservoir cap but I still couldn't get it off! I tried to pry the old pads apart but that didn't work either (I could only get a spot to pry on the outside pad, not the inside pad)! Any suggestions? I've thought of opening the bleeder valve to relieve the pressure but I don't know what else to do. Also, should I replace the sensor while I've got it apart? Doug

[Minidave]

You need "the tool"!

There is a special tool you use to compress the piston back into the caliper to allow you to get the new rear pads in, you have to turn the piston as you push it in. That's part of the self adjusting feature for the handbrake.

The club has this tool and lends it out, contact me at 913-648-6339 to arrange to borrow it, there's no cost. I'll also show you the trick to using it.

If you go to the section marked "Club Tools" here on the forum I think there's a pic of it, along with a list of the other tools the club has.

[minicoopers43]

Sounds to me like the problem isn't getting the piston back in but getting the old pads out of the caliper or loose enough to slide off. The rotor probably is worn enough to have a ridge on the outside of it preventing the pads from sliding off. If this is the case then make sure the caliper bolts are removed and get a pry bar between the top outside edge of the rotor and the caliper.

[Minidave]

Yep! If that's the case, you need new rotors too.

If you remove the torx screw that holds the rotor to the hub, you can take the caliper and rotor off together as a unit. However, if the torx screw hasn't been out before, they can fight you, and of course, you need the right tool! The best way I've found to get them out is to soak them in a good rust penetrant, then use an impact wrench, if you don't have one of those just make sure you have the right torx bit, and tighten it slightly before you try to loosen it. When you reinstall the torx screw, put some antisieze on the threads and the next time it will come right out.

I'd do it the way minicoopers43 says tho, the pads are shot anyway, just pry the caliper with the pads in it over the ridge.....you won't be able to force the piston back in because you have to turn it as you push it in. I believe the allen wrench you'll need for the caliper bolts is 7mm.

But you'll still need the tool to put the new pads back in - and you'll need the torx bit to get the rotor off.

You can buy rotors pretty cheaply at Autozone or Advance or O'Reilly's - they work just as well, especially if you don't run track events - and they're way less expensive. You can also get the torx bit there, I believe it's a size 50. Don't try and reuse the old rotors, replace them. Normally I buy only factory parts but for a street driven car, but these work just fine for someone who's on a budget.

You'll also need to replace the pad wear sensor to turn off the light, AFIK you can only get those at the dealer, but they're not that bad $$$.

[boxer]

Sounds like a garage day is in order. I would also replace the torx bolt. IMHA.

[Minidave]

Never hurts to have a spare, that's for sure!

However, all the torx bolt does is hold it together for assembly, the wheel bolts clamp the rotor to the hub.

BTW, I have a lot more room in the garage now since the Jag is running and I've moved a bunch of tools to the basement - things are finally starting to get organized!

[GrayGuy]

I recenlty did my pads and rotors, thanks Carl, Clair and Davester, and have a new rear wear sensor I'll throw in for the cause. Let me know how to connect. Steve, 816-246-1540.

[holubd]

Wow, thanks guys. I will definitely be contacting you (Dave) about getting the tool to compress the piston and Steve about the wear sensor. I thought it was weird to have a ridge on the outside edge of the rotor but when I checked the front rotor ("brakes" replaced by Baron about 7k ago) it had a significant lip too. Guess Baron didn't think it was necessary to replace the rotor on the front!

Dave- Garage looks good... I think I'm envious!

I appreciate the feedback and will let you know how it goes!

Doug

[ksminiman]

BTW, I have a lot more room in the garage now since the Jag is running and I've moved a bunch of tools to the basement - things are finally starting to get organized!

Holy cow Dave! The garage looks great!

Brakes... carry on...

[eronning]

Hi, my name is Eric Ronning. I have a 2006 MCS and my brake pad warning light just came on today, so I guess I am in for some fun. I have several questions about pads and rotors.

I have been pretty happy with the brakes, but I wouldn't mind a no-additional-complexity, moderately higher cost improvement in rotors / pads. Is there a pad that you would recommend as a general improvement over OEM pads? Similarly, what rotors do you recommend?

I am in Prairie Village at about 87th. How / where can I borrow the club brake tool?

Thanks!

Eric
Nine-One-Three-Four-Eight-Four-Eight-Four-One-Two

[Minidave]

Eric, are you replacing all 4 or just the fronts? You only need the tool for the rears....if you need the tool call me at 913-648=6339, I'm pretty much available anytime.

I've been very happy with stock pads and rotors on both my '03 and my '09, and I run my cars on the road course at Heartland Park, I always wonder why people think they need more brakes just to run on the street? Where the heck do you use them that the stock setup is insufficient? If I'm not trunning out of brakes coming down from 110-115mph to 50 or so going into turn 1 at HPT lap after lap, how the heck can you be - driving anywhere legally - on the street?

Needless to say, I like the stock pads just fine, and I buy them at Baron - don't forget club members get a 10% discount on parts at Baron, and buy a front pad wear sensor too, you'll need to replace the one that set the light on. If you don't want to spend what they want for rotors, you can buy std ones at O'Reilys or Advance for quite a bit less, and they'll work just fine on a street driven car. However, I would not buy my pads there....

If you want an alternative pad that makes less dust, several club members are very happy with ECS Green stuff pads. The Reds are a little to hard for street, I don't think you'd like them, they take some warming up before they work well plus they can be noisey. I run Akebono's on my twin turbo Audi, but they take a while to break in, the ECS pads have a "wear in" coating on them to break them in more quickly.

[eronning]

Dave -

I have about 55,000 miles on my car, so I am planning to just do all four at once. I suppose if had 50% left on the rears I will wonder if that was a good idea.

Thanks for the great pad advice, I guess I will go with ECS Green. I am a bit tired of all the brake dust on my wheels.

I noticed that O'Reilly has several brands of rotors (BrakeBest, Bosch, EBC, Raybestos), do you have any "avoid" recommendations, or are they all good? A friend of mine likes Brembo rotors, but they appear to be kind of spendy (and they are not at O'Reilly).

Regards,

Eric

[eronning]

One other question, by "ECS" brake pads, did you mean from ECS Tuning:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2006-Coop ... king/Pads/

or did you mean EBC Green?

Thanks.

[Hagar46]

He meant EBC. I have used EBC green pads and EBC slotted rotors since my first replacement stock rotors warped within a couple of weeks. Had good luck with EBC.

[Minidave]

Hagar's right, I meant what he said!

As to rotor brand, again you can get them from the same place, but I never had problems with my stock rotors, I really doubt you need Brembo's for a street driven car, unless you are doing some highly unprobable manuvers around town.....

The point of the slots and holes in the rotor is to remove the boundary layer gasses that form between the pad and rotor, but those only happen at extremely high temps, and again, unless you're on track or coming down mountain passes all day, you don't need them. (IMHO, of course)

Buying slotted rotors for street use doesn't hurt anything, they just cost more.....but if you're going with the EBC pads, might as well get their rotors too. IIRC they coat their rotors so the "hats' don't rust, that makes them look nicer down the road. I remember a MINI owner on another forum compaining bitterly that the expensive Brembo's she bought rusted - pissed her off big time!

Ventilated rotors however are useful (the stock Cooper S front rotors are ventilated) as they keep them from warping in the intermittant usage they get in street driving, as well as working well under heavy stress conditions like track events.

The most important thing you can do with your new pads and rotors is break them in properly, then you'll get good response and long smooth life out of them.

If you've never done a brake job before, it wouldn't hurt to have an experienced person looking over your shoulder, there are some "tricks" that make the job come out better, and some things to avoid doing so you don't cost yourself more work.

So, pads, rotors, sensor, rear caliper tool, the #50 torx bit, jackstands, jack, antisieze, brake slide lube, M7 allen wrench, 16mm socket and ratchet, 17mm socket (for the wheel bolts), new brake fluid, shop towels - those are at minimum what you'll need to do this successfully. Get ahold of me when you want to pick up the rear caliper tool and good luck with your project!

[Hagar46]

Ditto what Dave said!

[minicoopers43]

Here I am as always, offering help and a bit of experience if you need it. Just let me know!

[Hagar46]

Just ordered EBC rear pads and rotors myself. I've always used KC Autosport to install. However, garage day anyone?

[boxer]

I would be willing to donate a garage. My garage is not heated though. Hope for warm weather.

[Minidave]

George, I'd be more than happy to help you with those, and my garage is available too.

In fact, if you all want to do a garage day I'd be willing to host it at my house again.

[Hagar46]

MiniDave, thanks for your offer. I'd like to take you up on it. Maybe we can set a date after my parts show up next week. Anyone else interesed?

[S-car-go]

I don't have any work that needs to done but I'd be interested in stopping by for some gained knowledge, maybe fetch tools or help finagle something. I can be a good refreshment retrever also

[Minidave]

OK, so we have a volunteer for the Krispy Kremes!

George, if you need a rear sensor, Steve (Grey Guy) donated one he didn't use - I have it here.

[Hagar46]

Thanks, Dave, but I don't think my car ever had brake pad sensors. Never had a warning light come on anyway. But I have never done the pad and rotor install myself. Just don't know if I need it.

[Hagar46]

How about Saturday, January 21st, weather permitting, for a garage day? I might be driving to Houston and back next weekend. Don't ask me why!